Do-it-yourself and save money! Save money by doing-it-yourself. No matter how you say it, it can really add up. I like the phrase so much that I think I'll make it my new mantra. Maybe you should too. I've literally saved thousands of dollars by doing my own auto repairs. One of the coolest DIY projects you can do is performing your own brake job.

This job is relatively simple when compared to other repairs but there are quite a few steps involved and they should be followed carefully. We're going to break it down into 3 parts; (1) removing the brake pads, (1a) removing and replacing the rotors (brake discs), and (2) reinstalling the brake pads. If you're just upgrading your brake pads, omit 1a and bounce to aspect 2 subsequent to completing portion 1.

I should mention that we're discussing disc brakes only. Disc brakes will either be found on the front wheels only or both front and rear. Some vehicles have drum brakes on the rear wheels and the procedure for replacing them is slightly different. Are you ready? OK, let's get started.

First, decide if your going to replace the pads at all four wheels or just two. You'll replace the pads in pairs, front wheels or rear wheels. For a complete job and best results, do all 4 wheels. Do forefront or rear if your primary spending plan and/or time limitations won't let it. The front wheel brakepatches and calipers, and rotors are larger than those on the rear Acrylic Toronto and cost a little more. The procedures for both are basically the same.

By identifying whether the braking system profession is for two tires or various will even detect whether you'll jack the front side, rear, or both equally stops of this truck. It is possible to carry on considering the jacking when you have an effect gun to get rid of the lug almonds out of the wheels. If you have to remove the lug nuts using a crowbar, you should loosen them just a little (breaking the seize) while the wheels are on the ground. When the wheels happen to be in the environment, some might turn widely, which can make taking off the lug peanuts very difficult, if they are not impossible. Safely jack the vehicle and then support it on jack stands. Never perform work while a vehicle is only supported by a jack. Jacks fail and you may be putting your life in danger.

Once a wheel is removed, remove the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) by prying it and sliding it out with a large screwdriver. Next, let's remove the brake caliper. For the front wheels, it may be necessary to turn the steering completely either to the right or to the left to access the caliper guide bolts. They are simply on the once again facet within the caliper, frequently. The caliper guide bolts may have dust caps. These will be made of rubber or plastic. Use a small screwdriver to pry them out. Once the caps are removed, the bolt heads will be exposed.

Using your ratchet and the appropriate socket or Allen bit, remove the 2 bolts. Grasp the caliper and pull it away from the rotor. You may need to use a large screwdriver to pry it loose. Get rid of the two braking system patches through the caliper, prying if possible. One brake pad may be attached to the caliper piston by a clip. Loosen the clip and the pad will fall out. In the event your motor vehicle comes with brake mat indicator wires, with care remove the cable through the pad. The sensor wire will be on one pad of either the right or left wheel. Make note of which wheel has the wire.